Your Expert Guide to Blackheads and How to Get Rid of Them

Ok So, What Are Blackheads Made Of?

So, what is that dark-colored gunk? “Blackheads are referred to as open comedones,” dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD, explains. “They are a type of acne bump where dead skin cells, oil, and bacteria plug and dilate a pore.” Contrary to popular belief, blackheads aren’t caused by trapped dirt. “The [pore] plug becomes black from the oxidation of melanin pigment in skin cells,” hence the name blackheads, explains Dr. Camp. 

What’s the Difference Between Clogged Pores and Blackheads?

While clogged pores and blackheads can look similar, they’re actually two different things. “Clogged pores represent congestion of a pore with dead skin, oil, debris, and product residue,” says Dr. Camp. “Clogged pores may appear enlarged, but are not fully formed whiteheads or blackheads.” Otherwise known as “sebaceous filaments,” clogged pores often appear on the nose, making pores look larger. Unlike a blackhead, a clogged pore can’t be helped by a pore strip or squeezing. 

Don’t Stress: Here’s How to Treat Clogged Pores and Blackheads

Once you’ve identified what kind of blemish you’re dealing with, you can come up with a treatment plan. The good news? You’ve got plenty of options. According to Dr. Camp, both clogged pores and blackheads can be treated with similar over-the-counter products, such as cleansers, toners, or leave-on spot treatments that contain ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, or benzoyl peroxide. Blackheads that don’t respond to these treatments, however, may need to be treated with acne medication prescribed by a dermatologist.

“Consider using a facial cleanser with salicylic acid, which is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that penetrates pores to release oil and dead skin cells,” says Dr. Camp. “With your fingers, gently massage the cleanser on a trouble spot, such as the nose, for 10 to 20 seconds before rinsing off the cleanser.”

In terms of products, he recommends CETAPHIL’s Gentle Exfoliating SA Cleanser, as well as the 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant from PAULA’S CHOICE—a cult favorite of Ipsters. Dr. Camp also recommends adapalene, an over-the-counter retinoid that used to be available only with a prescription. “Retinoids regulate cell turnover and limit the formation of clogged pores and blackheads,” he says. “Remember to start using a retinoid slowly to avoid skin irritation like redness and dryness.” Retinoids like adapalene can also make skin more sun sensitive, so make sure to apply a daily sunscreen like this SPF 40 Unseen Sunscreen from SUPERGOOP!.

“Lactic acid and glycolic acid are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that may be more gentle on the skin than salicylic acid,” says Dr. Camp. “They separate the bonds between dead skin cells to exfoliate skin and limit the formation of clogged pores.” If you have more sensitive skin, consider trying SUNDAY RIELY Good Genes All-in-One Lactic Acid Treatment, which gently dissolves dead skin cells and helps diminish discoloration.

Final Thoughts

While pore size is pretty much determined by genetics, you can keep oil buildup under control with over-the-counter treatments—whether you prefer a gentle exfoliating serum or a powerful retinoid gel. These will help clear out your pores, but their effects usually aren’t permanent. Ultimately, your pores will fill back up—that’s what they do—but you’ll know just how to tackle them this time around.